Brian eventually caught one small trout in the Moraine creek - success! - and many more in the other rivers that flowed through the park, both that afternoon and the next day. We gazed at fellow monoliths from the top of tundra trails, and spooked a red fox along a riverway. All the time, my small knitting project lay safe and secure in my pack, ready to emerge anytime we sat for more than a few moments.
The Experience: If Aspen isn't quite your mountain town scene, head to Vail instead. It's equally as idyllic (it was modeled after European mountain resorts), pedestrian-friendly, and lovely, but the town itself is more of a square in a village with a small collection of boutiques and restaurants for visitors. Ride up and down the gondolas for mountain views in every direction and ski the unique back bowls. It's also closer to Denver, making it easier to get to and, therefore, a little more crowded during peak seasons.
The Leland House and Rochester Hotel are family-owned historic hotels with an authentic Western theme. The 14 rooms at the Rochester Hotel are themed after Westerns that were filmed in the Durango area. Each of the 12 accommodations in the Leland House is named after a historic Durangoan and is decorated with that person’s memorabilia, biographies and photos. All rooms have Wi-Fi, cable, Aveda products, complimentary gourmet breakfast and free Cruiser bike rentals. Grab a drink at the Rochester Bar which serves the hotel’s signature Rochester wine.
Baker Pass crosses the Continental Divide through the Never Summer Mountains and into the Michigan River drainage to the west of Mount Nimbus[36]—a drainage that feeds streams and rivers that drain into the Gulf of Mexico.[28] Other mountain passes are La Poudre Pass and Thunder Pass, which was once used by stage coaches and is a route to Michigan Lakes. Little Yellowstone has geological features similar to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. The Green Mountain trail once was a wagon road used to haul hay from Big Meadows. Flattop Mountain, which can be accessed from the eastern and western sides of the park, is near Green Mountain. Shadow Mountain Lookout—a wildfire observation tower—is on the National Register of Historic Places.[36] Paradise Park Natural Area is an essentially hidden and protected wild area with no maintained trails penetrating it.[39]
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The park is home to some 2,000 to 3,000 elk in summer, and between 800 and 1,000 elk spend the winter within its boundaries. Because of lack of predation, the National Park Service culls around 50 elk each winter. Overgrazing by elk has become a major problem in the park's riparian areas, so much so that the NPS fences them out of many critical wetland habitats to let willows and aspens grow. The program seems to be working, as the deciduous wetland plants thrive within the fencing. Many people think the elk herd is too large, but are reluctant to reintroduce predators because of its proximity to large human populations and ranches.[76]
Fort Collins is the perfect base camp for your trip, located just 35 miles from the peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park that soar to more than 13,000 feet and form the Continental Divide. The town of Estes Park sits at the eastern edge of the park. Rocky Mountain National Park covers 410 square miles and includes Longs Peak (14,255 feet high), 18 named peaks above 13,000 feet, 150 named lakes, and the highest continuously paved highway in the U.S. — Trail Ridge Road. The road is usually open from Memorial Day until early October. However, the park is open year-round and lower elevation roads are open during the winter.
Brian and I descended back to ~7,000 feet for dinner in a small-town Indian restaurant in Nederland, Colorado, west of Boulder. By then, both our heads ached like a bad hangover, and my lungs literally burned when I tried to inhale anything but shallow breaths. Add generalized joint pain, and I had a full-blown case of altitude sickness. Given that I am a noted hypochondriac, I expected the worst.
