Tucked deep in the San Juan Mountains in southwestern Colorado, this carefully restored 19th-century ghost town and natural spa is surprisingly well appointed. The rugged, old-timey building exteriors hide high-end features such as cathedral ceilings, air conditioning, and gas fireplaces. Dolores has four parks and a peaceful bike trail that takes peddlers along the tumultuous Dolores River. You can enjoy hands-on exhibits and a nature hike at the Anasazi Heritage Center, or explore an exact replica of the original narrow-gauge rail car, the Galloping Goose. Share a romantic meal with tasty cocktails at Sophia’s Bistro.
The Leland House and Rochester Hotel are family-owned historic hotels with an authentic Western theme. The 14 rooms at the Rochester Hotel are themed after Westerns that were filmed in the Durango area. Each of the 12 accommodations in the Leland House is named after a historic Durangoan and is decorated with that person’s memorabilia, biographies and photos. All rooms have Wi-Fi, cable, Aveda products, complimentary gourmet breakfast and free Cruiser bike rentals. Grab a drink at the Rochester Bar which serves the hotel’s signature Rochester wine.
Sonnenalp Hotel is often named as Vail’s top hotel, in a place that’s already home to countless exceptional properties. A Bavarian-style lodge, it offers Old World Alpine traditions merged with the spirit of the west. All rooms offer views of either Gore Creek or Vail Village and boast impressive amenities like goose down comforters and handmade furniture, a fireplace, marble bathrooms with heated floors and an oversize tub. The impressive breakfast buffet is a great way to fuel up for activities, which includes spa services, a private 18-hole golf course, hotel ski guides, and more.
Beginning in Durango, the San Juan Skyway Scenic Byway is a complete loop that will take you up to Silverton, along the Million Dollar Highway to Ouray, over to Placerville, south to Telluride, Dolores, Mancos, and back to Durango. If you have less time or are only planning on heading in one direction, you can do the Silverton to Ouray section beginning from Durango, up to Silverton, over the Million Dollar Highway to Ouray, and beyond to Montrose or further north to Grand Junction.
The sun made us lazy, and after following Brian as he made his way upstream I found a wider expanse of sand and gravel, promptly plopping down on a pair of flip flops I had brought in my backpack as a make-shift seat. After identifying the northern harrier hawk over my head, and the savannas sparrows and red-winged blackbirds perched precariously on reeds across the water, I took out my knitting project. I didn’t have to worry about losing Brian; in the valley I could see for miles in both directions.
